Thursday, May 24, 2007

Roasters At My Door

A waiter in Spiaggia once told me that Italians view French and California wines as works of art, to be admired and appreciated. On the other hand, they see Italian wines as simply good for drinking. He then proceeded to serve me a Langhe so exquisite that it left no doubt that "simply good for drinking" does not have to mean "unsophisticated".

Italians and Americans seem to be similarly split over espresso. Most American roasters, including Chicago's very own Metropolis and Intelligentsia, think big. They give you in your face flavor, incredible complexity of aromas - chocolate, honey, lavender, parsley, sage, rosemary, thyme. Only by the sweat of his brow does a coffee connoisseur get through fully appreciating those.

Well, it turns out that there is another way, brought to us courtesy of Caffe Umbria, a brand new Seattle roaster started by the team behind the now defunct Torrefazione Italia. Their espresso blend is quite different from anything I've had lately. Certainly, it does have the flavors, but they are muted, understated. You do taste some chocolate, but mostly it's just coffee, and it is quite smooth.

There is something very American about those bold flavors, which is probably why we love them. Mere coffee is not enough for us, we have to go beyond that and find every fruit, berry and herb known to man right there in the cup. It must have something to do with the journey being more important than the destination, dreaming big, the new sheriff in town, and other fine aspects of the American dream and/or experience.

The Italian way is more about getting things just right, something that Italians value and are frightfully good at, which is why the world always lusts after Italian stuff.

So now I have a choice, and I can only go with one roaster. My palate is not yet sensitive enough to analyze the fine points of these blends, but neither is yours, so it's not about that. It is about a comfort level, and that's what I'll spend the next few days achieving, by making a lot of espresso. Hopefully, I'll come to a conclusion of sort.

If you would like to sway my opinion one way or the other, please comment.

52 comments:

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Hi Pavel - we've been anxiously following your progress and can't wait for you to open right down the street from us. Personally, if I want a Metropolis coffee, I will head over to Granville. It's not far. I love Chicago and like to buy products made close to home, but the coffee diversity in the close neighborhood is practically non-existent, so here is a vote for (gasp!) Seattle.

dave said...

go for something different!

Pavel Yusim said...

Edgewater votes for change, eh?

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